We usually write about a specific product in this space but this time we are taking a look at a person behind a well-known brand. This interview was published by Cosmetic Executive Women, Inc. (
www.cew.org ) a nonprofit professional organization of more than 4,000 executives in the beauty, cosmetics, fragrance, and related industries. CEW is based in NYC, and has associated organizations in France and the United Kingdom.
Sonia Kashuk, president and creative director of Sonia Kashuk, Inc., has step by step transformed herself from makeup artist to beauty business executive. Her nine-year-old signature cosmetics collection, long exclusive to Target, has just made a highly unusual leap expanding distribution into the prestige sector with the addition of Space NK shops in Bloomingdale’s. Next year, the line will debut overseas at Space NK stores in the United Kingdom.
How did your makeup career begin?
I helped with the makeup for the music video for the song Funkytown in the early ‘80s. That experience just pulled everything together for me. I remember thinking, `yes, I am going to go to beauty school now.’ Because at the time, you had to be licensed to do makeup, not just for hair like it is today. When I started doing makeup, it focused my energy.
What came after beauty school?
I went to work at a salon, running the makeup department and counter. Clients would get their hair done and I would do their makeup. Within a month of doing that, I knew I was more interested in being a freelancer. I started working on fashion shows and picking up other freelance jobs. I was having an incredible career in Minneapolis, but I knew New York was where I had to go.
How did you prepare for that jump?I studied fashion magazines.
I was so impressed with the work of makeup artist Linda Mason. She used bold washes and stripes of colors. I desperately wanted to meet her. But I wasn’t having much luck until her agent hired me to help on a show. At our first meeting, her face was painted green. She was trying out a look for the designer Willi Smith’s Williwear show. Linda eventually recommended me to the photographer Arthur Elgort. He took me under his wing. It changed my life.
What came next?
In the late 80s, I consulted with Aveda on a new makeup line and the brand’s overall creative direction. And I continued to travel for other assignments.
How did this lead to your relationship with Target?
I worked on a beauty book with Cindy Crawford, titled Cindy Crawford's Basic Face. It was published in 1996. The book tour took us to Target and other big box stores. At the time, Bobbi Brown and Francois Nars were establishing their prestige makeup artist lines. I got inspired to start a makeup artist line of amazing products at affordable prices. I found mass market makeup lines difficult to shop because they had too many color selections. If I found it this overwhelming, how must the typical woman feel? I wanted to do a more edited line. I got the name of a senior executive at Target and called. They’re always looking for new ideas and embraced the concept. I was the second designer, after Michael Graves, that they began working with.
How has your focus changed during the course of your career?When I launched my cosmetics line in 1999, it coincided with the birth of my second child. I realized that I loved doing makeup, but I also loved the concept of creating a brand and handling the business side. I was married with two children and wanted to be more in control of my own destiny. I didn’t want to be waiting for a phone call to know if I had a freelance job the next day. Now that my career has transitioned from makeup artist to beauty entrepreneur, I’m in control of it, instead of it controlling me.
How do you manage work and family?
Our offices are in the same building as my apartment. So when my kids come home from school they can pop in and say `hi.’ We could be sitting here working on [product] names and my kids might pull up a chair and work on names too. I love that about my office. It is not stiff and uptight. It is a creative, peaceful and calm environment.
In 2006 you were diagnosed with early stage breast cancer. You opted for a double mastectomy to give yourself some peace of mind. How did you handle serious health issues, while running a company?
My family has a history of breast cancer. So I had regularly been checked at Sloan Kettering. I got the news in May of 2006 and within a month underwent a lumpectomy to remove the tumor. I realized I had to schedule the most major surgery into my life. I didn’t do it until September 15th. I wanted to have everything organized beforehand. I had to carve out time. It is amazing that whatever you need to do in life you get through it. Target, and my vendors, were so incredibly supportive. Everyone did everything they could to help out. To help others, I partner with Target and the Breast Cancer Research Fund, and in 2009, will serve on the board of the CEW Foundation which supports the Cancer and Careers Program.
What do you think has helped foster your success? A lot of things have happened by my being a little bit aggressive and stepping over the line. What is the worst that can happen, other than someone saying, `no?’
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